In the original build of the canal, there were several locks that boats had to negotiate. When another canal was opened along an alternate route with few locks it made the Dismal Swamp a less attractive options for shippers (the locks each charged at that time) so the owners redesigned to have only 2 locks. Since the canal is now managed entirely by the Corp of Engineers and other US government agencies, there is no cost associated with navigating through the canal. In fact, due to efforts to preserve the historic waterway, no wakes are allowed so all commercial traffic and most go-fast boaters choose the other canal. While this is good for preservation, it does make the argument of why spend money to maintain the canal. Knowing of this debate and knowing historical importance rarely wins maintenance dollars, we are glad we made the trip now since it may not be doable at all in the future. So far it is still being dredged but not as deeply as it once was and no overhead (tree trimming) is done at all that we could see. Both lock keepers were so nice and chatty as we passed their little domains.
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Bridge openings were timed to match the lock openings since the lock keeper was also the bridge tender. They would open the bridge then open the lock or do that in reverse depending on the direction of travel. At the first lock, we waited on southbound boats to clear the canal then she opened the bridge for all of us. Then we waited while she drove back to the lock and opened it for us. What the heck, we're in no hurry! |
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The locks raise or lower the boats depending on direction of travel. We're headed upriver so we ride the water up about 8 feet. |
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How it works is simple. You throw 2 lines, bow and stern to the lock keeper to but around a bollard (post) then you hold the boat along the wall with your fenders out to avoid scrapes and bumps on your hull. Then you just enjoy the ride as the lock fills, taking in line as you rise. |
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At the first lock, we met a couple from Sweden while we waited. We were lucky enough to spend the next 2 nights socializing with Susan and Lars. We really love hearing other folk's stories. |
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A common thing to do along the lock walls is to leave your boat's name. More prepared boaters even have decals to leave. |
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Following the Swedish boat into the second lock. Notice the overhanging branches along the side where you tie up to wait for the opening. Not nice! |
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The keeper at the Northern lock gave us such good advice on things to do and see in Portsmouth and Norfolk. The keeper's cottage has it's own historic tale to tell. |
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This keeper has become a conch aficionado. If you overnight at the lock on the North end, he provides you with a rendition of the Star Spangled Banner on various conchs. If we go home through the canal, we will make it a point to overnight there. |
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