Saturday, February 18, 2023

Little Harbour-1

 It was tough but part of cruising to say good-bye to Deb and Mark.  We turned Blue Moon north from Spanish Wells and they were going south to Eleuthera.  This was a significant leg of our trip.  We negotiated a very narrow passage through a reef to depart SW, rode a long day of tall waves and then negotiated yet another narrow passage through another reef to get to the Sea of Abaco.  We had wanted to go into Little Harbour on high tide that evening but we were tired enough to be satisfied with just finally being in the Abacos.  The next morning we left early and entered the harbor at high tide.  We had very little water under the keel at some spots so we'll definitely leave on a high as well.  The guide books didn't steer us wrong.  This place was well worth visiting.  In the course of 2 days we have walked the entire perimeter of the peninsula and explored a cave where a famous sculptor and his family lived until they could get established on shore.  We had hoped to buy the book they authored but none were available on the island.  I wish I could post the pictures in order but my computer and blogger just seemed to each have their own ideas on which order to download then upload.  Sorry.

It's been very windy for several days so the seas have had
time to build.  It is breathtaking to watch the energy of the wave
smash against the land.  Also made us grateful to be watching and 
not in it!


Walking the remote shoreline we came across this piece of something.
It was fiberglass and heavy and several hundred feet from the shore.

We left the more touristy area and walked the village.  It is
situated on the hills around the harbour.  The only non-private roads were on
the ocean side.  We came across a variety of houses.  This one had a 
commanding view of the ocean and a great ecologically friendly drive.

The entrance to the harbour.  Fortunately it was calm when we entered.
We can only hope for the same when we depart.

This was basically a small shack at the end of a long pier.  
No one was around to ask more questions.

This is one of the roads into the village itself.  It forms a
large rectangle with houses on either side.

Only two sets of red/green buoys mark the channel.

A view of the channel from the shore.

This was the major road leading out of the village.  Hard packed dirt.

One of the places to visit is the old lighthouse ruins.  These
were the exposed joists.  The second floor was lost to hurricanes
years ago.

We walked down to the cliff's edge and took this one looking back
up toward the ruins.

The yacht club and its dock.

This drive was so fancy and well landscaped.  The house
was not visible so you know it's a long drive.

This is from a hill overlooking the Little Harbour Cut.  It 
brings a boat in from the Atlantic into the Sea of Abaco.  Zoom in
and look for that little patch of non-surf and that is how you have to come in.
Reefs on either side are marked with the waves.

If you zoom in, you can see a guy on the left painting the railing.
He was painting from the narrow ledge of the deck.

Me and my ruins.

This was an impressive spot with pounding waves.

The water has made channels in the hard rock all along the beaches.


Spanish Wells

 We positioned Blue Moon on the east side of Great Harbour Cay to be closer to our next destination, Spanish Wells.  Turned out to be a questionable decision.  Yes, we were several hours closer but the swell made it a rough night.  In cruising, you pick the lesser of two evils sometimes when it comes to weather decisions.  This was one of those times.  We left at daybreak and had a rough time of it getting across the open water due to winds that were dead behind us and caused a LOT of rolling.  By the time we crossed the reef outside of the area, we were more than happy to go into the protection of Royal Island and drop anchor.  Our buddy boat, Mistral, with Mark and Deb aboard joined us in the anchorage.  The next day we were able to snag a mooring ball in Spanish Wells and Mistral stayed outside in the anchorage until the next day when they were able to find a small, but well protected anchorage close to town.  We had a blast showing them around one of our favorite places, so far, in the Bahamas.  Like anyplace we really like, lots of pictures.

Deb and Mark from Mistal joined us in exploring.
We walked the entire circumference of the island on
one day then rented a golf cart to explore adjacent Russell Island
and grocery shop.  They were a lot of fun and very compatible to 
our cruising style.

Like many small places, one business accommodates several needs.
You could rent a golf cart, buy souvenirs or rent a house from this place.

The moorings are very close together and shallow water is
right behind the area.  It was a trick getting in and getting out.

Two guys waiting while the women shopped.

Deb on one of the beautiful beaches on the north side of the island.

With three foot tides, there was plenty of beach at low tide. 
You can see a water line on the seawall where high tide hits.

What a perfect looking place.

 
Back to Royal island for a minute, this is a working dock for
yet another resort trying to make a go of it on the remote island.

We went to lunch on Russell Island and the SandBar.  These
rental boats provided a bit of a show as novice drivers tried to get
them out of the shallows that arrived with low tide.  

A beautiful mural on the side of the restaurant.  Worth zooming in.

Spanish Wells is such historic and picturesque place.  They
claim their roots back to sailors from Columbus' first voyage.
We are always impressed at how well everything is kept.  Pride
of place shines everywhere. 

We joked that we could pass the Grey Poupon from one
moored boat to the next.

Glorious sunrise in the Royal Island anchorage.

The SandBar is outside dining with a tremendous view.

 

GHC-Final

 We really enjoyed our time at Great Harbor Cay.  There was so much to do and we much such great cruising friends.  What's not to love, other than $14 lettuce?

We went into a previously unexplored cove by dinghy.  We had
ridden our bikes by these places but things look so different from
the water.  There were so many docks and big boats.  Zoom in and
you'll see a huge cut made in the rock to allow big trucks into the area.

This is the Blue Cove Inn.  It looks small from the road but
it's quite an area. The building on the left is also part of the complex.

Finally caught Papa manatee.  We've seen the whole family in
the marina but never with a camera.


Thursday, February 9, 2023

GHC-4

 Today we rode to the other end of the island that overlooks the end of the Berry Island chain.  There were many opportunities to hike out to the ocean or bay side and we took them.  It was really hard to winnow down my selections for the blog.  Enjoy.

On one of the ledges overlooking the ocean, you can see swirl marks
left by pooling and flowing water.

You frequently find roads that used to be paved but have not been 
maintained.  They are all over the island.  Jeep type vehicles are 
understandably very popular.

This house was almost hidden by vegetation.  The drive
was so beautiful especially with the ocean at the end.

The overlooks were constantly barraged by wind driven waves.

Meanwhile on the lee side of the island, calm water.

These overlooks are so blessed with breathtaking views.

This was a real path not just an unmaintained road.

This is an unmaintained road believe it or not.

A path to the sugar beach cave.

Pat on the trail.

The lighthouse marks the end of the Berry Islands.  There
is a narrow passage of water dividing that island from GHC.

The water just off Bullock Harbour is a popular anchorage.

Ahh, no climbing to get off and on the boat, for now.

The old sugar beach lodge where the Ratpack hung out.

This poor flamingo still finds a good use as a trail marker.

Very fancy house.

The road at the Northern tip of the island is a big loop.
This is where the two halves of the loop meet up.

The thin bit of water dividing the islands.

Tidal  flats and another island in the distance.

Another favorite place to eat Coolie Mae's.  The food is always good.

And the view is stunning!

Sugar Beach cave.  It can only be safely reached at low tide.